As published on OnMilwaukee

I’m quite sure that singer-songwriter Jim White was not referring to Saint Bibiana when he wrote the words “A bar is just a church where they serve beer.” But they are apt, nonetheless, when describing the Brady Street bar and restaurant which opened earlier this summer.

After all, the venue is named for Saint Bibiana, a martyr sometimes known as the patron saint of hangovers. And the venue was designed to resemble a little East Side church … albeit a very sexy church with a neon glow in its balcony and tempting portraits of angels watching over all who partake at the bar.

Currently, Saint Bibiana offers a full bar and an abbreviated food menu that boasts all-day breakfast items like scratch biscuits topped with fried chicken, poached egg and hollandaise ($13.95) and decked out avocado toast with chorizo, red onion, tomato, eggs and Sriracha crema ($13.95); rounding out the menu are bar snacks like nachos, loaded fries and pickle chips ($7.95-$9.95) and a few sandwiches including buttermilk fried chicken (two varieties, $10.95), deep fried spiral-cut hot dogs on a toasted bun with pancetta, onions and red pepper aioli ($9.95) and the Bibiana Burger.

The Bibiana Burger features two 3-ounce ground beef patties, American cheese, grilled onions, sliced pickles and “Saint Sauce” on a sesame seed bun ($12.95 with fries). You can make it a triple for +$2.

Presentation: 10

Neither the gates of heaven nor hell opened when the burger was delivered to my table on its paper covered tray. But my salivary glands did quiver a bit as my eyes gave the burger a run down, from its golden brown seeded bun and thick-sliced pickles, to its glistening caramelized burger patties cloaked in melted cheese and resting on a bed of thinly sliced griddled onion. Yeah, it looked pretty darned good.

Bread/Bun: 10

The bun was soft and pliable with just enough heft to hold up against the juiciness of the burger (which was juicy … and greasy and messy … in a good way). It was lightly toasted on both cut sides and nicely sized for the 6-ounces of meat it held (add a third patty and you’ll get a meaty burger, but it will be out of balance). As for its flavor, it possessed a subtle sweetness that complemented the salty, savory elements of the burger nicely.

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